About the imminence of spring and the rewards of eating seasonally
The arrival of the first fava beans, coinciding with the arrival of the big fat round Roman artichokes, is the first welcome sign of spring in the food markets of Bologna.
When I saw the fresh fava pods in the market about 10 days ago, my heart did a little excited dance. On checking I found the price was too high, a sure sign that these were the very first of the season, the "primizie". Primizie produce fetches premium prices - sorry, tongue twister! - though the produce is not yet at its best, and that's because impatient gourmands are prepared to pay more, to satisfy a year-old yearning. But I knew that the beans inside would be sweet, yes, but they would also be too too tiny, the pods almost empty. You'd be paying for the pods mainly and you can't cook the pods!
Yesterday however the price had already dropped to half last week's and my trusted green grocer assured me the pods were full of good sized beans. I was so thrilled to buy them, my first of the season, smiles and joy!
I eat seasonally, which in a way means serially, one a thing at a time, as it ripens and reaches the market. We've been indulging in artichokes cooked many different ways through the winter, and enjoying red radicchio, winter greens, bulb fennel, broccoli and cardoons. Next, very soon now, we will be eating a lot of fresh favas, peas and asparagus; a lot of peas especially, because their season is so short. Later I will be as excited to make my first fresh tomato sauce as I am sad when I make my last one of the year. Then the basil, the tiny leaf Genoa basil, will arrive, finally good enough to add perfume and not just colour. Then the colourful soft fruits will start and so on and on. It really is sheer joy to eat like this. Not only do you eat everything at its absolute peak, when it tastes most intensely of itself, there is also the relish of anticipation, the added pleasure of re-encountering a cherished missed flavour after a long patient wait.
In central Italy, because the timing of the favas coincides with lambing time, a common antipasto this time of year is a heap of fava pods on the table with a chunk of young Pecorino, aged just 20 days or so, and a fresh loaf of bread alongside: perfectly matched food that sings of spring. Few things can beat this rustic feast. The sweet raw fava beans, the fresh cheese with its aromas of milk and grass, good bread, good company, a glass of wine: this centuries old ritual is a perfect celebration that connects with the the earth, with its rhythms and cycles.
Gramigna is a little short curly extruded pasta that is very popular in Bologna, especially dressed with mushrooms and pork sausage, together or each separately: Gramigna alla salsiccia, Gramigna ai funghi, Gramigna con salsiccia e funghi are the classic matches. In Romagna it is sausage again, but sausage with peas is the variation there, rarely mushrooms. And then I also like Gramigna with peas and prosciutto; with ricotta and Guanciale; and with shredded Savoy cabbage and Guanciale or Pancetta. Just a few ideas in case you encounter this relatively rare pasta shape.
This is the recipe for the pasta "condimento" that I made to welcome spring:
Gramigna con Fave e Ricotta
For two people you will need:
125g (4 oz) Ricotta, ideally fresh and sheep's milk
200g (7 oz) Gramigna pasta
or use small or half penne or another small format pasta
550g (a little over a pound) freshest fava beans (broad beans) in the pod for 180 - 200g (2 cups) shelled weight
or use good quality frozen
30g (1 oz) lightly smoked Pancetta or streaky bacon
30g (5 tbsp.) well aged Pecorino Stagionato (aged 6 - 10 months)
or substitute Parmigiano-Reggiano or Ricotta Salata if you can get it, rather than the often too salty Pecorino Romano
EVO oil, coarse sea salt, black pepper
This is what you do:
- Shell the fava beans, grate the cheese, and cut the Pancetta into1 inch strips
- Bring a small pan of water to the boil for the favas. When it is boiling, add coarse sea salt then the beans. Cook uncovered till very tender about 10 to 12 minutes if they are freshly picked and not too big. If you prefer you can cook in the large pot you'll use later for the pasta. I removed the outer skin from a few of the beans (and ate it, great fibre!) because the green inside is so bright and pretty.
- Place the sliced Pancetta to render its fat in a small pan over very low heat - toss and turn the pieces from time to time.
- Bring to boil 2 litres of water for the pasta. Salt well when it is boiling then tip in the pasta and stir after a minute or so. Cook the pasta to the al dente stage.
- In a bowl dilute the ricotta with 2 or 3 tablespoons of the pasta water, then stir in the grated cheese. You should have a creamy consistency that retains a little of the curd texture of the ricotta
- Place the ricotta cream in a pan large enough to toss all the pasta in. Set aside off the heat. You then place on very very low heat when the pasta is almost ready.
- When the pasta is right (which means almost but not quite done - it is going to keep cooking while you toss with the sauce and even on the plates) drain it out of the water using a wire mesh scoop, jiggle a bit to shed excess water, then tip immediately into the ricotta and cheese cream while it is piping hot. Add the drained fava beans.
- Toss well over a whisper of heat to mix then serve topped with the crisped Pancetta.
- Pass the olive oil, a pepper mill and more Pecorino to dress to taste at table.
Peas, leeks and artichoke also work well with the ricotta, a little of each or using just one vegetable.
Besides the fact it is not yet in season basil does not work well here. Thyme and oregano are too strong, with their slight bitter edge. If you want to add a fresh herb - just one is plenty - choose between parsley, wild fennel fronds, or tender fresh marjoram leaves.
Many Italians would omit the cured pork altogether to focus on the fresh spring vegetables. I personally like to use the pancetta for crispness and colour. You may prefer to use barely warmed through cooked ham or strips of salami instead of the pancetta. Of course only one, not all three.
Garlic and chilli don't belong in this dish. They just don't make sense to the palate.
